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May 01, 2008
Great Dane: Falsled Kro - Robb Report

In Karen Blixen’s 1950s short story “Babette’s Feast,” a French woman prepares a life-altering,

10,000-franc dinner for a group of puritan villagers on Denmark’s west coast. Across the Little Belt

waterway on the bucolic island of Funen, a similar tale of indulgence in the Danish hinterlands unfolds at Falsled Kro.

World travelers Lene and Sven Grønlykke stumbled upon the remote Baltic Sea village of Falsled, a two-hour drive

from Copenhagen, in 1971. The couple acquired a small inn—the town’s first when it opened in 1500—and began

applying their hyper-perfectionist personalities to the task of transforming it into an ethereal retreat. They planted English

and French gardens, added two half-timbered annexes, and furnished the guest rooms with restored antiques culled in

forays around Europe. But the Grønlykkes’ most fortuitous import was French chef Jean-Louis Lieffroy, whose

Babette-like knack for combining Gallic cooking skills with produce and game from Denmark’s fields, forests, and

seas soon made Falsled Kro Scandinavia’s premier culinary destination.

Its cuisine aside, Falsled Kro has a unique sense of warmth or hygge as the Danes call it. During winter, when

candlelight illuminates the resort’s interiors and exteriors, the scent of a dozen birch fires perfumes the air while

chef Lieffroy’s smoked salmon waits on the dinner table. Fragrant gardens erupt into full Technicolor glory in the

summer, when the sky remains a languorous blue until late into the night. The evening view is best savored from

one of Falsled Kro’s private terraces, with a chilled glass of herb-flavored aquavit to wash down the nightly feast.

Falsled Kro, +46.6268.1111,


On the southern shore of Denmark’s Funen island, 120 miles southwest of Copenhagen. 
Of the 19 white stone– and timber-walled accommodations, Nos. 17 and 18—spacious duplexes

with private terraces—are the best.
The cuisine of chef Jean-Louis Lieffroy, formerly of the Château d’Artigny in France’s Loire Valley, is worth the trip

to Funen. Lieffroy frequently changes his nine-course tasting menu, which may include venison from Funen’s forest.
Explore surrounding villages by bike and nearby islands by ferry. Plan a daylong tour of Hans Christian Andersen’s

birthplace in nearby Odense, and the surrounding countryside where you can see the fairy-tale castles that inspired his


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